CESKY KRUMLOV

In June, we'll be having our literary conference in the Fairy Tale town of Cesky Krumlov. Situated on the banks of the Vltava river, the town was built around a 13th-century castle with Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements. It is an outstanding example of a small central European medieval town whose architectural heritage has remained intact thanks to its peaceful evolution over more than five centuries. This magnificent town is now listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

Cesky Krumlov is a jewel of historical architecture in Southern Bohemia. Known as Krumau in German, the name of the town comes from the German for a place on a crooked meadow, and the first written reference to the town in 1253 refers to it as Chrumbenouwe. The Cesky (Czech for Czech) part was added in the 15th century. Lying close to the German and Austrian, the town was always a mix of German and Czech residents, until 1938, when the Germans occupied the area, and then 1945, when the German residents were forced to leave.

We'll be staying in the lovely ancient 4* Hotel Hotel Zlaty Andle (Golden Angel)

From Frommer's, "If you have time on your visit to the Czech Republic for only one excursion, seriously consider making it Ceský Krumlov. One of Bohemia's prettiest towns, Krumlov is a living gallery of elegant Renaissance-era buildings housing charming cafes, pubs, restaurants, shops, and galleries. In 1992, UNESCO named Ceský Krumlov a World Heritage Site for its historic importance and physical beauty. Bustling since medieval times, the town, after centuries of embellishment, is exquisitely beautiful. In 1302, the Rozmberk family inherited the castle and moved in, using it as their main residence for nearly 300 years. You'll feel that time has stopped as you look from the Lazebnický Bridge and see the waters of the Vltava below snaking past the castle's gray stone. At night, by the castle lights, the view becomes even more dramatic. Few dared change the appearance of Ceský Krumlov over the years, not even the Schwarzenbergs, who had a flair for opulence. At the turn of the 19th century, several facades of houses in the town's outer section were built, as were inner courtyards. Thankfully, economic stagnation in the area under Communism meant little money for "development," so no glass-and-steel edifices, like the Hotel Thermal in Karlovy Vary, jut out to spoil the architectural beauty. Instead, a medieval sense reigns supreme, now augmented by the many festivals and renovations that keep the town's spirit alive."

The year 1302 was to be a major turning point for the town. This was the year that the Rozmberk family of nobility came into possession of the town, and bestowed upon it the benefits only a powerful family could bring. The town received certain privileges, building were built, commerce and culture flourished, and the town grew in importance. The town's architecture still reflects this period of affluence, especially in its Renaissance buildings. In 1494, the town was even granted Royal status. The Latran quarter, which includes the castle, and the inner Old Town, were joined together in 1555 by Vilem of Rozmberk. But this period would come to an end in 1602, when the aging Peter Vok of the Rozmberks was forced to sell off the Cesky Krumlov estate to the Emperor, Rudolph II. This meant that the town was no longer the seat of its overlord, and it fell into the status of backwater again. Soon after, in 1613, the town was taken when troops from nearby Passau in Germany invaded Bohemia, and then, of course, came the Thirty Years' War. The town was occupied first by Imperial forces, then Bavarian, and then in 1648, Swedish, and all the money spent to keep the town from being razed to the ground over the years left it financially ruined. The town passed to the Eggenberk family in 1622, and then to the more powerful Schwarzenberks in 1719, who also made the town their seat. Though the town didn't prosper as much under their rule, but there was still some construction completed. Much of this took place in the castle, which was built into the second largest in Bohemia, behind only that in Prague. The castle contains five courtyards and features an excellent collection of Renaissance and Baroque art, though some has been moved to nearby Hlobouka castle. Across a bridge that offers a wonderful view of the town is the Rococo Theater, a one of the most well-preserved Baroque theaters in Europe, and then further up are the castle gardens with their revolving, open-air theater.